I
visited Kanchi last week, and took some photos of the sculptures hiding in the
vimaana (or athimaana, to use Rajasimha Pallava’s term) of the Kailasanatha
temple. For some strange reason, these vimaana sculptures have not attracted
much attention, it seems. The scarcity of books on this marvelous temple is astounding.
Even among the mini shrine sculptures, there are quite a few puzzles.
The most
comprehensive treatment of this temple is Alexander Rea’s Pallava Architecture, published in 1909 (with reprints by Asian
Educational Services). Rea’s book has a pencil sketch practically every other
sculpture in the temple, but the vimana sculptures are not represented among
the sketches. From the photographs in Rea’s book, it is obvious that the roof
was in a perilous state. We are fortunate that the ASI took over this temple
and restored it to a state of safety, and accessible to visitors. While the ASI’s
efforts in the 1960s to safeguard the Pallava paintings were successful (as listed
in an article in South Asian Studies, Ed: Dr R Nagaswamy), the attempts to
improve the sandstone sculptures are nothing less than a travesty. In most but
not all cases, the lower level sculptures continue to be iconographically
similar to the the sketches in Rea’s book. We have a much worse situation with
Tripurantaka temple, now called Amaresvara, where the modern cement sculptures have
nothing to do with the sketches in Rea’s book.
In
Kailasanatha, we can only presume that the iconographicy of the vimana sculptures
have not been altered, though the rendering leaves the aesthetics wanting. The
sculptures on the lowest tala of the vimanam are hidden away behind the shaalas
blocking them, and not easy to spot, view or photograph from the ground level. One
marvels at the perfectionism of Rajasimha’s sthapathi and silpis – for their efforts
in depiction that are practically invisble to a visitor on the ground level.
The
shikhara is at the fourth and highest level of the vimana. Immediately below
it, at the third level or tala is one shaala and two karna kutaas. Below this
at the second tala or level, are two shaalas and two karna kutaas. Neither of
these have any sculptures, except some faces in the nasis of the shaalas. At
the fourth tala of the vimana are three shaalas and two karna kutaas. On all
four faces of the vimaana, there are sculptures only on the shikara (first
level) and the fourth or lowest level. Sculptures adorn the wall on either side
of the central shaala on each face of the vimaana.
These shaalas
themselves have interesting mini sculptures of Siva dancing in various poses.
South Face
The
south face depicts a Dakshinamurthy on the shikara, perhaps in alignment with
the magnificent Dakshinamurthy panel on the wall below it. There is an older
rishi to Siva’s right and a younger rishi to his left. Instead of a banyan
tree, there are vague botanical attempts over his head. Two of the four
rishabas (bulls) on the shikhara are visible, whose zoology is much superior to
the aforementioned botany.
Dakshinamurthy |
L: Vishapaharana - R: Chouri bearer Eight armed kneeling dancing Siva in Naasi |
L: Chouri bearer R: Siva |
Siva's foot on a figure |
At the fourth
level, the right side – eastern segment – has Vishapaharana, and a chouri (fan)
bearer female. The left side – western segment - has a dancing Siva on top of
an unidentifiable antagonist and another chouri bearer. The south face is the
only one with chouri bearers; the other three faces have male dvarapalakas on
the extremes. The naasis of the shaalas have eight armed dancing Siva, kneeling
on one leg, reminiscent of the large sculptre on the western wall of the temple
and the Panamalai painting.
I took
these photographs from the tar road flanking the temple.
West Face
The west
side of the temple is occupied by locals who have built some houses. I managed
to take these photographs without intruding on them, but the approach angles
are not simple and the residents may not take kindly to too many visitors.
West face of Vimana |
Vishnu on Shikhara |
Back: Kalarimurthy Naasi: Unknown Below: Skanda or Kubera? |
|
The
shikhara here has a seated Vishnu with conch and discus (shankhachakra). The
lowest level has a Bhikshatana murthy, with a rishi and two rishipatnis on the northern
left segment behind the left shaala, and a Kalarimurthy with a gana on the
southern right segment behind the right shaala. The left shaala has Ganapathy
in the nasi, and Narasimha seated below. The right shaala has an unidentified
characted in the nasi and either Kubera or Skanda below him.
North Face
I forgot
to take a photo of the sculpture on the shikhara here.
The left
segment on the fourth level here seems to have Tripurantaka and the right
segment seems to have Gangadhara. The naasis of the shaalas in front of these
have Kalarimurthy and Gajasamharamurthy respectively. I took these photos from the
northern corridor, better photos must be possible from the lawn outside.
|
Naasi: Gajasamharamurthy |
Back: Tripurantaka Nasi : Kalarimurthy |
East Face
The east
face is somewhat difficult to photograph, because the Nayak era mandapa blocks
some of the angles. The shikhara has a seated Siva with an axe and deer in right
and left hands, respectively.
Back: L - Dvarapalaka and R - SivaNaasi: Kneeling 4-armed Siva |
Back: L - Vishnu and R - Dvarapalaka Naasi: Kneeling 4-armed Siva |
On the fourth
level, on the right side (northern) segment are Vishnu and a dvarapalaka. To
Vishnu’s left is a standing Sridevi or Bhudevi. In the naasi of the shaala is a
four armed Siva, dancing while kneeling on his left knee, right arm across his chest;
below him is Vinayaka. On the left (southern) segment, are a dvarapalaka and Siva
(the left hand holding a deer is visible). In the naasi of the shaale before
him, is a mirror image of the image on the other naasi, i.e., there is a four
armed Siva, dancing while kneeling on his right knee, left arm across his
chest.
Hopefully
better photographs will help understand these.
Related Links
- காஞ்சி கைலாசநாதர் கோவில் வாழ்த்து
- Lecture on Kanchi Kailasantha temple (video –in Tamil)
- Pallava Grantha alphanet in Kanchi Kailasantha temple
- Rajasimha Pallava’s calligraphic script
- சிற்பத்தில் இந்திரன்
- Tripurantaka temple காஞ்சி திரிபுராந்தகர் கோவில்
- கல்லிலே ஆடவல்லான்
- கோயிலும் கல்கியும்
new interesting find..i think chowry bearer scultures have some siginificance..k.sridaran
ReplyDeleteGlad you think so.
DeleteI wonder why the vimana here doesn't get as much attention as the vimanas of the Five Rathas in Mamallapuram.
Good work Gopi. Would I be able to see them in my life time?
ReplyDeleteJust waiting for a little bit of rain, Narasiah sir, but I will definitely take you for a personal tour.
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